Netflix’s ‘High on the Hog’ offers food for thought on race in America

Terroir是一个法语单词，大致翻译为“地方的味道”。它在葡萄酒界被扔掉，以描述特定的地热条件，这些条件解释了某些葡萄的味道为什么。当然，风土也以其他方式工作。环境和行为对它们生产的食物产生影响，而食物会影响享受这些食物的环境和行为。

考虑到Netflix的新系列高猪traces the origins of a cuisine, it makes sense for the host to be a sommelier, an expert on terroir. But since the cuisine in this case is American, and its origins involve centuries of exploiting people and culture taken from Africa, it helps thatStephen Satterfieldis a sommelier and also much more.

“我一直发现食物和葡萄酒是使人们对周围世界更批判性思考的一种有效方法，”食品出版物的创始人萨特菲尔德说。磨石and a chef in his own right. “We could virtually piece together any component of human history in analyzing our diet or our foodways, and doing so gives us permission to talk about subjects that otherwise feel difficult, cumbersome, challenging, or taboo even.”

高猪，从5月26日开始在Netflix上流式传输，主要是这些主题。当然，观众将获得红薯和山药之间的区别，但是他们将更多地了解非洲人的奴役者不仅将人们从陆地上夺走，而且还将土著食品，传递的食谱和烹饪独创性夺走。大多数食物表现出来的东西都回避了。

“It is impossible to have certain conversations on food and agriculture without a racialized perspective coming into it,” Satterfield says, “because the foundational relationship between Black Americans and the United States of America is one of subjugated labor for the purposes of growing the agricultural sphere here—first with rice, and then ultimately tobacco and beyond.”

基于备受赞誉的食物作者杰西卡·B·哈里斯（Jessica B. Harris）的2011年书籍，高高的猪：从非洲到美国的烹饪之旅，该节目有时像1619年的烹饪项目一样演奏，同时也在NC-17美食色情，Chummy聊天表演和先验交流之间摇摆。哈里斯自己露面，但最终该系列被构成了主持人的个人旅程。

萨特菲尔德（Satterfield）首先对食谱的人类学起源感兴趣，同时担任侍酒师十多年来。通过学习从风土的角度与葡萄酒互动，他开始通过类似的镜头看各种食物，并且经常对他所看到的东西着迷。

He walked away from the sommelier business in 2007 because he found it too homogenous, sloshing in a red sea of white males, and too focused around a seemingly endless exam process. He didn’t leave the wine world behind entirely, however. Instead, he started a nonprofit working with Black farmers and winemakers from the Western Cape of South Africa, whom he met while working as a somm, and whose history stuck with him.

主持人说：“我真的感觉到了他们通过荷兰殖民化的故事的故事。”“而且，我看到超过90％的劳动力是黑人和棕色的南非人拥有不到1％的行业。这些不是我们在葡萄酒课程中学习的东西。”

The disconnect between wine industry canon and the greater historical landscape of fermented grapes inspired him to help tell more food origin stories. He’d already developed an ability to communicate complex agrarian narratives—talking about certain wines inevitably led him to bring up apartheid and Nelson Mandela—and so he channeled his skills into creating印刷杂志dedicated to culinary origins and culture. It was his way to share more perspectives too often missing from traditional food media.

这也使他成为了新的Netflix系列赛的制作人的雷达。

Satterfield was not aware until far along in the interview process that he was actually being recruited to host高猪。起初，他认为他只是利用自己的知识和联系来帮助策划演出的元素。直到第三次与制片人Fabienne Toback会面时，她问他是否准备好让观众见面并认识他，他才意识到正在发生的事情。这是一个梦想成真，但他只会在得到杰西卡·哈里斯（Jessica B.（她立即批准。）

Beyond Satterfield’s expertise and show-aligned interests, he makes for an ideal host with his magnetic warmth, searching eyes, and palpable empathy. His casual interview style during gatherings keeps conversation flowing and allows breathing room for authentic experiences to emerge in. He and his guests turn a variety of spaces into convivial atmospheres where, despite the often-heavy conversation, everyone watching might feel welcome to pull up a seat.

萨特菲尔德（Satterfield高猪。

他说：“我的思想转向了所有年轻的黑人孩子，尤其是世界各地，他们会观看这一点，并看到他们在系列赛中反映出他们的相似之处。”“谁知道他们将继续保持的方式，不仅要保存，而且可以推进我们在演出中展示的许多食物和文化传统。”